From the Hardest Road to “Healing Fatigue”: Awaji’s Hidden Rice Lager

Tsukarenaosu Brewery (Awaji Island, Hyogo Prefecture)

If you’re looking for an easy-to-find beer, this isn’t the place for you.

Tsukarenaosu Brewery is located on the southernmost tip of Awaji Island, in a tiny settlement sandwiched between looming mountains and the sea. The population here consists of just a few residents.

To reach it, you must navigate a winding mountain road that seems to go on forever. At times, the road hugs the edge of cliffs with no guardrails between your car and the drop below. It is a thrilling, nerve-wracking drive that feels less like tourism and more like an expedition into the unknown.

A “Secret Base” for Beer Lovers

At the end of this treacherous path lies a former aquaculture facility, now transformed into a brewery. With its industrial, rugged aesthetic, it feels like a “secret base” for adults—a hideaway completely cut off from the noise of the outside world.

The owner and head brewer, Mr. Suga, was once a corporate employee working for a manufacturer. Leaving the stability of company life behind, he fell in love with this isolated location and decided to build his dream here. He named the brewery “Tsukarenaosu.” While it sounds like the Japanese phrase for “healing fatigue,” it is actually a Palauan word meaning “Let’s drink beer.”

However, brewing in paradise comes with a price.

The Nightmare Before Summer

In the early summer of 2024, just months after obtaining his brewing license, tragedy struck. While Suga was away on a business trip, a power outage hit the facility. The cooling system failed, and over 2,000 liters of beer—his precious stock for the upcoming peak season—were ruined.

“I just collapsed on the brewery floor,” Suga recalls. “I stared at the ceiling, in tears, unable to move.”

It was a devastating start. But Suga refused to let his dream end there. He channeled his frustration into brewing a new batch, one that would symbolize his recovery.

The Comeback Brew: “Fuku Lager”

To break the cycle of misfortune, Suga crafted an American Lager using local rice from the Fukura region.

The result is “Fuku Lager” (ABV 4.5%).

Staying true to the ingredients, this beer offers a light and crisp mouthfeel, yet it holds a solid, distinct umami derived from the rice. Its lower alcohol content makes it incredibly sessionable—you can gulp it down one after another.

Since the production of the local rice is limited, this beer is not always available year-round. It is a rare catch; if you are lucky enough to encounter it, it is a must-try.

How to Enjoy It

Given the treacherous mountain roads, driving back after tasting is not an option. We recommend checking in at the nearby Hotel New Awaji Plaza Awajishima.

From the hotel, it is about a 30-minute walk to the brewery. Buy your bottles of Fuku Lager, hike back up, and retreat to your room. There, gazing out at the panoramic view of Fukura Bay, enjoy the “Fuku Lager.” The crisp taste of the beer, combined with the sense of accomplishment from the journey, makes for an unforgettable experience.