Aromatic White Ale with “Phantom Citrus”: Discovering Awaji Island’s Hidden Gem

Nami no Oto Brewing (Awaji Island, Hyogo Prefecture)

Sunset, Pines, and the Sound of Waves

Keino Matsubara, located on the western coast of Awaji Island, is a designated place of scenic beauty in the Seto Inland Sea. This 2.5-kilometer stretch of white sand is lined with nearly 50,000 black pine trees. It is officially recognized as one of “Japan’s Top 100 Sunsets.” Watching the sun go down through the silhouette of thousands of pine trees is a sight you won’t forget.

Just a five-minute walk from this pine grove, you will find a brewery that answers the traveler’s wish to drink a local beer in such a stunning location: Nami no Oto Brewing (literally “Sound of the Waves Brewing”).

The “Phantom Citrus” of Awaji Island

The brewery’s flagship beer, “Belgian White with Naruto Orange,” is a masterpiece that marries traditional Belgian brewing with a unique local treasure. The star ingredient is the “Naruto Orange,” an ancient citrus variety discovered on Awaji Island about 300 years ago.

Unlike modern, sweeter citrus varieties, the Naruto Orange is known for its refreshing acidity, distinct bitterness, and powerful aroma. Because it is a native species that has not been crossbred, the trees grow large and live long, but they are difficult to cultivate and harvest, earning them the nickname “Phantom Citrus.” The brewer peels each fruit by hand, soaking the skins in the wort to extract every bit of their fresh, zesty character. The result is a beer that is aromatic and vibrant—a true taste of the island’s history.

Brewing in the “Land of Food”

The man behind the kettle is Mitsuaki Kono, a native of Osaka with a background in agriculture. After studying farming at university and working in food processing, Kono decided to follow his passion for brewing. He honed his skills for five years at a brewery in Osaka that produced both Sake and craft beer. It was there he developed his philosophy: “To brew beer that highlights the ingredients.”

When looking for a place to start his own brewery, Kono was drawn to Awaji Island. Historically known as Miketsukuni (a region that supplied food to the Imperial Court), the island is a treasure trove of high-quality ingredients. “I felt infinite possibilities here,” Kono says. He found an old warehouse formerly used for storing roof tiles—a local specialty—and renovated it into the brewery that opened in spring 2023.

Since then, he has experimented with a variety of local adjuncts beyond the Naruto Orange, including island-grown rice, plums, tomatoes, sea salt, milk, and even pine needles from the nearby forest.

Sipping Under the Pines

Nami no Oto Brewing offers a unique drinking experience. The brewery has a shop where you can buy fresh cans to go. The best way to enjoy them? Take a short walk to the nearby Keino Matsubara beach. Sitting on a bench in the pine grove, listening to the sound of the waves with a cold beer in hand, offers a moment of pure luxury.